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The cut you see here in photo #1 high lighted by the Yellow dots, is to show how thin the water jacket wall would
be if you just did a plunge cut into the head bolt boss.If you were to make the cut at the lower leading face of the boss
and went straight in all the way,You would hit water or the Head could/would crack at this Point Especially If you were to
over Heat the motor. The area that you see in this photo and the next photos showen here.(The tan Or RUST look is the Main
Water Jacket)

IN photo #3 shows how thick the deck part of the Head is. That is a Non Milled head with a deck thickness of.227
Plus or minus depending on the casting.

These three photos show you a deck thickness of .145 Leaving you with ONLY a deck thickness of.132. And The
last photo # 6 shows what May & Can happen if the motor is over Heated like this one was. (OUCH!!)

These next two photos are of the Lower & upper half of the intake and exhaust Port. The left photo is the port floor
an the right is of the port roof. In the left photo you can see how the some of the Boss is still there ,But what you can
not tell is how much was counter sunk into the Old Boss casting. But you can see how much of the Boss was left behind.In the
right photo you can see some of the work that was done to the valve Guide Boss. That is another area That needs some work
to Improve the air flow in this Heads.I will have more on this in up coming photos.

In these two photos you can still see a Good Veiw of the water jacket and The Short turn Radius, and a little better
look at the Port shape.
One other draw back on this head is the Sharp edge on the short turn Radius which is NOT GOOD for Air Flow.
You will see more of these types of photos as I go along.

A little insight as what is being done to the Valve Guides.
As they are being blended into the Bowl. To remove all
Sharp edges and then Blended into the Bowl area,To Help
Improve the Air Flow In and around the Valve guide boss.

These two photos show the Valve Guide removed 100%
Which shows to have a Small gain In CFMs for Racing.
But it is Not the Best thing for a daily driver,as the Valve
does become a little more unstable.And would not be
cost effective for a daily driver.
Next I would like to show a Before & After and a Side
by Side. The Before and After Photo is that of the Boss fully removed and The Bolt-in Lump in Place. And what the New intake port would then Look like.The Side by Side Photo,
Is that of a MIke Kirby Braze-in Lump and My Bolt-in Lump.
| Before an After Lump installed |

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| Mike Kirbys Braze-in, In the Left Photo. |

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| My Bolt-in Lump , in the Right Photo. |

Now Lets take a little bit of a closer look at the Blended in
Bolt-in Lump and The Safe Bolt location Placement.

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| Note The Bolt cut off & Blended to the Lump. |

Now if you take Notice in the Upper photo that the Lump retaining Bolt Has Been cut off and
Blended to the Face of the Lump.And You will see How Tight The Lump fits the Port floor and Opening. Which MEANs Very
Little to No epoxy,And Very Little Blending Is left to be done.
Now in the Lower Photo You can see where The Bolt which
Holds the Lump in place is, Safely Drilled and counter sunk into the head. The Area Of the
Yellow Lines Is the Best and the
and the safest Place to drill with OUT hitting the water Jacket.
Now lets take a little bit more of a closer Look at the Boss area. Now that the Boss has been removed.
And How the Floor and the ceiling area(Boss) Has Been Blended to the Rest of the Intake ceiling area,And The Floor has
been counter sunk for the New Allen Head Bolt.

Now in Photo 1 here you can see How the new allen bolt sits in it's new location counter sunk
into the Port floor. But you can also see what is left Of the Boss On the Port ceiling in Photo 1.
And as you can see in photo #2 the Boss Has been blended of to the Rest of the port ceiling.
And The Boss area has been counter sunk for the New Bolt , Also If you look more closely You can see where The Head Gasket
area Has Been Drilled & counter sunk for The bolt-in Lump allen bolt.
And In photo #3 you can see what was left of the Boss as Most of it has already been Removed from
the Port. Now In these next set of Photos You will get a better Look at what the short turn radius will look like
Once the Bolt-in is installed.

Now In These Photos you can take Note On How Well My
Bolt-in lumps fit The Port Nice and tight,And how it will change The Short Turn Radius to the Valve.
With Very Little Blending left to be done.And another Look at how the Valve guide boss has been Blended off some, To a tapper
Rather then the Stock Boxie look. You will also Note How the Lump reachs into the back of the Port.
Also In these sets of Photos you can get another good Look
at the Water jacket. And How thick the casting is around the Port
as well. When Blending (cleaning up) the short Turn radius it can be easy to Over grind and end up in the short turns water
Jacket,This seems to be the Most common area for Most first time port jobs done at Home.
So it is always Best to practice this on a Bad(junk yard) head Before trying this on a Good Head
,If your going to do something like this at home. And It maybe a good Idea to leave
The boss removal to a machine shop.
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